What I Learned about DTLA While Searching for BBQ
The once bustling downtown is no longer booming but there are signs that it can recover.
Last Sunday, my wife and I drove to downtown Los Angeles after having read somewhere that if you call (323) 379–3635 three weeks in advance of pick-up, you could order the world’s best BBQ, though you would have to go to the commercial district to pick it up.
One other hitch, we were told when ordering, is that upon arrival you won’t see any signs or other clear indication of the existence of a BBQ joint. “Just park curbside at the address provided and text that you have arrived. Then wait for someone to come forward with the food.”
Sure enough, five minutes after our arrival, a masked man, seemingly from nowhere, stepped to the passenger side of our Prius with a big brown back in his hands.
The only words I remember hearing were “back seat or trunk?”
In response, I lowered the back widow. Five seconds later, with the bag of BBQ placed on the back seat, the masked man took off. Where he went, I have no clue.
But where to eat? BQQ in the car doesn’t sound fun.
My plan — a picnic in some park among the skyscraper, hopefully with a fountain or some statue or work of art in plain view.
Hence I had brought along some cold beers, two folding chairs, each with its own umbrella, and a portable speaker.
But what disappointment followed, if only because the first place I had in mind was filled with so many boarded up businesses, homeless tents, seemingly lost souls, trash, and graffiti.
Same true for the second place on my list. The third place as well, and so many others thereafer.
Wherever we went, and whatever favorite old haunts we checked out, everything screamned of a DTLA that wasn’t anywhere near to where it had been some months earlier. Certainly, this is not what I had in mind when I suggested a DTLA Sunday late afternoon BBQ picnic.
How did this happen? Only a few months ago, coming downtown felt like such an adventure, so many new and exciting things to do.
As stated in the LA Times recently; “For 10 years, downtown had been a boom town, an improbable refutation of its history as a 9-to-5 enclave for commuters only. The city had a youthful, renegade, gastronomic vibe. After nearly a century, Los Angeles had a downtown that could rival other great American cities.”
Now? No way. So sad.
Yet the search for a place to picnic went on. Up this street we went. Down that street. Turn left. Turn right. What about . . .
All no good!!
Yet just as I was about to give up, I spotted one small section of the city that appeared spared from the downturn; something that reminded me of what used to draw my Cindy and I to the core.
And so there we had our picnic and yes it did fulfill the wish with which we had set out. As for the BBQ, Moos it was called, it was indeed very good!!
Nonetheless, I couldn’t help saying to myself as we headed home “I sure as hell am not going back to DTLA for awhile. Too depressing right now.”
Yet this morning, we found some reason to give DTLA one more try . . . a Facebook posting announcing the opening of new restaurant; one that has a connection to some friends of ours. So off we went.
The place was called Fable, “a combination cafe, bar, delicatessen, and restaurant. Also a place where you can enjoy modern iterations of traditional American cuisine, creative craft cocktails, local artisan specialty foods and classic culinary staples.”
Such a cool venue.
The website had it right. “Fable reflects DTLA’s history of acceptance and diversity by celebrating the community’s vibrant flavors.”
Wishing you well, Taylor.
Prio to March 2020, this is what DTLA was all about. So hoping to see the core like this again soon.